What Goes Into Creating A Red Carpet Beauty Look? Ella Mai’s Makeup Artist Shares All
A version of this story first appeared on Forbes.com
Ever wonder how celebrities get glam for a big red carpet event like the GRAMMYs? Wonder no more!
Celebrity makeup artist Emily Cheng, who did the makeup for singer Ella Mai, filled us in on what goes on behind the scenes of a celebrity glam squad and how she decided on Mai’s crimson smokey eye.
SIMPLY: Tell me about the makeup look you decided on for Ella’s red carpet look and what inspired you?
EMILY CHENG: Ella has these beautiful almond-shaped eyes that I love accentuating. With this gown I wanted to do a smokier eye, but instead of a classic black I incorporated the red from the gown as the main hue.
I was thrilled when I got word that her dress was going to be this rich, beautiful red, as I love to play with shades of red and pink on the eyes. I think it’s such a beautiful and flattering color on all skin tones. We also played around with the placement of the smokiness for an added twist to a classic look.
SIMPLY: What are the key products used to create this look?
EC: For her face, I used the Shiseido Synchroskin Self-Refreshing Foundation in Oak 340 and Shiseido Synchroskin Self-Refreshing Custom Fnish Powder Foundation in 340.
For the eyes, I started by creating a winged shape just on the outer corner of the eye blending inward with Shiseido’s Kajal InkArtist Shadow Liner in Azuki Red, also lightly buffing into the outer edge of the lower lash line. To further blend out the edges I buffed over the color with Rose Pagoda. For those that struggle with liquid liner, try out the ArchLiner Ink. The shape and size is incredibly unique and in my opinion completely fool-proof. Try it with your eyes open and carve out your wing!
For the lips, I used a Beautyblender Micro.mini and dabbed on ModernMatte Powder Lipstick in Nude Streak to keep the focus on the eyes. This technique keeps the balm underneath moisturizing but presses on the color for a satiny-matte finish.
SIMPLY: How do you collaborate with the stylist, hair stylist, and Ella when deciding on the full red carpet look?
EC: It’s definitely a collaborative process with the entire team. Like most teams, we have a group chat where we send each other mood boards and ideas. This way everyone knows day-of what the look is and what they’re doing, and the day runs smoothly.
Once I know what Ella is wearing, I start to build different mood boards for looks I have in mind and then share them with the team and Ella. Collectively we decide what we like best.
Of course, we put our own twist on it on the day, and there are always tweaks and changes as we go along.
SIMPLY: What are the top 3 essentials that you always have in your makeup kit?
EC: 1) Shiseido Synchroskin Self-Refreshing Foundation and Custom Finish Powder Foundation (that’s two but they go hand in hand). I have all 30 mini shades in my kit, and as an artist, it gives me the confidence that I’ll have anyone’s shade! The texture is a soft satin finish with fantastic coverage that still allows skin to look like skin. I usually use the powder just in the T-zone and will press in with a Beauty Blender for all-day mattifying.
2) The original Beautyblender. I cannot remember doing makeup without a Beautyblender! I’m not sure what it is, but without fail it will distribute the perfect amount of product every time you press onto the skin. The finish is seamless, and I’m able to use less foundation, which I always prefer. It’s also not just for foundation; I use it with powder to set makeup. I also often use it on the lips to achieve that blurred-stain look I love so much.
3) Shiseido’s ArchLiner Ink or the MicroLiner Ink in black. Having a rich, true black makes a huge difference when lining the eye. The pigment of both of these is very deep, and it makes the eyes pop. A lot of times black eyeliners can have either a blue or grey undertone, and if the pigment isn’t there you’ll never get a true black. This especially makes a big difference when you’re going for a smokey eye. You need colors that pack a punch!
SIMPLY: What's your secret for creating makeup looks that are made for photos and video?
EC: I have a pretty light approach to makeup. I don’t like to powder too much, as I love skin looking like skin. I love Shiseido’s Synchroskin Self-Refreshing Custom Finish Powder Foundation, as it gives just a touch more coverage while mattifying, and it truly lasts all day wit its anti-humidity formula. I use this just in the T-zone. I roll a Beautyblender in the powder and press onto the forehead and around the nose. With a brush I gently dust off any excess.
The pressing motion really locks and sets the base and the beauty blender is the perfect tool because it doesn’t leave any texture. I chose this combo as my must have because even if you have the perfect makeup application a shiny T-zone in photos will be distracting and take away from all that hard work!